If you want perfect skin, it is necessary to build a skincare routine you will stick to zealously. If you want good results, do not skip the routine even for one day. Skin cleansing is critical to maintaining healthy-looking skin (1). A proper skin care routine always starts with skin cleansing.

Thorough cleansing in the evening (dirt and make-up removal) and quick cleansing in the morning   (elimination of toxins from the surface of the face) are essential parts of proper skincare routines for every skin type. For that purpose, we can use soaps, cleansing rinse-off products, make-up remover wipes, toners, or refreshers. Bar soaps can cause skin drying, and they cannot remove make-up thoroughly. Instead of them, beauty experts recommend cleansing products without soap, rinse-off products, and make-up remover wipes. Tonics or refreshers remove all dirt and traces of the cleansing products. Tonics with alcohol are good for removing excess oil, but they can dry out the skin, so alcohol-free tonics are a better choice. (1).

Special attention must be devoted to cleansing eyes and lips. For especially sensitive area around the eyes, you should use eye make-up removers or the mixture of castor oil and sweet almond oil (2).

Products for skin hydration are formulated for proper skincare of different skin types. Lotions and emulsions are designed for normal to oily skin. Creams are more appropriate for softer skin. Save for dry skin, innovative, very light formulas contain hydrating ingredients, and are suitable for every skin type. Gels and hydrating creams without oil are perfect for oily skin. To further protect the skin, UV filters and nutritious components, like vitamins, are added to hydrating creams.  Night creams are

useful for dry skin, and we recommend them after the age of 25. Very heavy creams should be avoided as they can lead to a bloated appearance. (1)

The usual hydrating creams may cause puffiness and stretch very soft skin around the eyes. For proper care of this delicate area, use specific products like eye gels and eye creams. Eye gel as part of a morning routine will refresh the skin, whereas a little eye cream will strengthen tissue during the night (1).

If you wish your skin to be flawless with a healthy glow and an even tan, you must give it proper care every day

NORMAL SKIN TYPE

For this skin type, proper skin care means that you maintain skin’s good condition and pH balance (1).   It does not demand too much care, and with cleansing the body twice a week, this skin type still keeps a healthy glow. First of all, the daily routine includes cleansing the skin (1) Even if you are tired, it is necessary to cleanse your skin before going to bed. (2). Bar soaps are not suitable for this skin type. You can use mild soaps like a baby’s soap.  (1). Even better is facial cleansing milk and cleansing rinse-off products or make-up remover wipes, formulated for normal to dry skin. At night, it is advisable to apply a thin layer of rich hydrating cream (2) or light night lotion to keep the natural moisture balance. (1).

In the morning, it is necessary to wash your skin with water (alternately cold and hot). After that, use an alcohol-free tonic for normal skin, or mineral water spray and light daily cream with UV filters. Before applying make-up, always put hydrating cream first (2) If your skin, due to weather changes, becomes oilier or drier in any body area, you can apply appropriate hydrating cream or lotion for oiling skin. Keep in mind to treat only the affected areas, not the whole skin (1).

DRY SKIN TYPE

This skin type is characterized by a mildly rough texture and a feeling of tightness (1).The skin is on the whole fine, very sensitive, and lacks elasticity. It is prone to redness (rosacea), wrinkles (2), flakiness, cracking, and itchiness (1). Daily routine requires cleansing with oily milk or a combination of oils for skin cleansing (2).

For a proper skincare routine for this skin type, it is necessary to apply body milk for dry skin and rich nutritious and hydrating facial cream every evening. Morning routine includes cleansing only with water (alternately cold and hot), and applying alcohol-free tonic or mineral water spray, and not too oily daily cream with UV filters. Before applying make-up, always use hydrating cream (2).

OILY SKIN TYPE

This skin type is characterized by thickened, oily skin with enlarged pores, comedones, rough and uneven skin tone with imperfections, often prone to pimples, acne, and blots (1, 2). It may look oily after waking up, and usually becomes oily and shiny one hour after washing up (1). Proper skin care routine for oily skin starts with a thorough cleansing. Daily routine requires evening cleansing with non-oily milk and water or oily skin tonic. You can use an astringent tonic, but be careful not to overuse it. The condition can worsen, if the skin’s surface is stripped of all oil. Although bar soaps cleanse skin thoroughly and remove oils creating a clean feeling, it is not recommended to use it for a long time, even for very oily skin. To remove all traces of make-up, use products that do not contain soap, or make-up remover wipes for normal to oily skin and wash off thoroughly with water after use (1).
Oily skin prone to acne requires cleansing with hypoallergenic products for oily skin. It is not advisable to use a soap bar. It is also recommended to use astringent alcohol-free tonics (2).
For a proper skincare routine for oily skin, apply light night creams. Morning routine should include washing the skin with water only (alternately cold and hot) (2) or with products that do not contain soap (1). After skin cleansing, apply light daily creams with UV protection. Before applying make-up, you should not use any other products except a little tonic (2).

COMBINATION SKIN TYPE

Combination or mixed skin type is characterized by oily areas in the T-zone and dry areas on different parts of the face (1, 2). The different parts are rough and uneven. Daily routine requires skin cleansing with milk or tonic for combination skin. For proper skin care of combination skin, use rich hydrating night creams. Start the morning routine washing the skin with water only (alternately cold and hot). After skin cleansing, use light daily creams with UV protection. Before applying make-up, use hydrating cream, especially on dry areas (cheeks and neck (2).

SUNDAY PROPER SKIN CARE ROUTINE

Sunday routine is an essential part of proper skin care. It involves applying certain products like masks and peels once or twice during a week to further deep cleanse and refresh the skin.

Facial skin cleansing masks are most often clay-based or contain ingredients from fruit that can absorb excess oil. Fruit enzymes deep cleanse skin and restore its natural glow. (1). A mask choice for proper care depends on the skin type. However, yoghurt face mask is a good choice for all skin types (1). Beneficial for dry skin, hydrating masks diminish fine lines and refresh the face (1).  After using the mask, refresh the skin with appropriate tonic (2).

Chemical peel is especially beneficial as it removes dead skin cells, so the skin looks smooth, healthy, and refreshed with a natural, even tan (1, 2). However, a peeling procedure should be performed cautiously, as the conditions may worsen, especially with oily and sensitive skin and if used too often. With proper skincare, the use of an at-home peel once a week is more than enough, and twice for oily skin. It is recommended to use the treatment in the evening, so the skin can regenerate and take a break from make-up (2).

Special care must be devoted to the lips. One peel a week is recommended for the lips. After the treatment, put cocoa butter on the lips and leave it for five minutes before removing excess butter. Apply the peel in the evening hours, before sleep, so that lips can regenerate during the night (2).

Reference:

1. Gupta R. Skin Care. New Delhi: Diamond Pocket Books (Pvt.) Limited; 2004.
2. Mosco V, Passeri A. School of Makeup: Learn a step by step beauty make up routine. Firenza: Edimedia; 2015.

The skin is the largest organ in the body, and its basic function is to provide a barrier between the internal and external environment. It also protects the body from harmful microorganisms, ultra-violet (UV) radiation, allergens, and irritants. The unique protective function of the skin is the result of its structure and composition, especially of the epidermis, the layer most exposed to the outside environment. The knowledge of the skin’s structure and function is the key to its proper care. The basic cell component of the epidermis is keratinocyte. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, differentiate (lose nucleus) into dead cells named corneocytes. The structure of SC resembles a “brick wall” of cells in which corneocytes represent “bricks, and intercellular lipids represent “mortar“. The skin’s function as the barrier depends on the integrity of SC (1).

Intercellular lipids made of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol ensure the barrier permeability. The precursors of ceramides, free fatty acids, and part of cholesterol are released into the deeper layers of the epidermis.  Sebaceous glands secrete the remaining lipid fractions as sebum into the skin’s surface. Among the free fatty acids, there are palmitin, stearin, behenic, etc., less represented  omega-9 (oleic acid), omega-3 acids (eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid), and omega-6 acids (arachidonic and linoleic). SC hydration is the key to its integrity. The components of Natural Moisturizing Factor – NMF placed inside corneocytes also help SC hydration. NMF components are free amino acids, pyroglutamic acid, milk acid, urea, peptides, glucose, citrates, glycerol, etc. (1). Although the structure and functions of the skin are the same regardless of age, race, or sex, there are differences defined by the genetics and ethnicity, and they determine the skin type. Knowing one’s skin type is the key to its proper skincare.

The skin type is determined by the amount of fats created in sebaceous glands and the amount of intercellular lipids. T-zone is the central facial area in the shape of the letter T formed by the forehead, nose, and chin. In general, the skin gets drier as it gets older due to the decreasing production of fats/lipids. Depending on the amount of oils/lipids the skin produces, we distinguish four basic skin types: normal, dry, oily, and combination. Sometimes sensitive skin is categorized as a skin type, but it shows the condition of the skin, whereas doctors consider acne as a disorder. All skin types need proper cleansing, exfoliation, and hydration. It is a challenge to determine every person’s skin type.  (2).

NORMAL SKIN

Normal skin characterizes a well-balanced sebum production and moisture content, and it is important to maintain the balance with proper care. Depending on the environmental conditions, this ratio may vary, so the normal skin type includes slightly dry and slightly oily skin.  Follicles are normal size and the skin has no blemishes. It is typical to have follicles whose sizes vary from small to medium only at the edges of T-tone alongside the nose. Follicles are usually not very visible toward cheeks or external parts of the face. (2) The skin is clean, finely textured, flexible, smooth, well-vascularised, and with ideal pH. (3).

DRY SKIN

Dry skin does not produce enough lipids. Follicles are usually small and the amount of sebum is minimal. The true indicators of dry skin are hardly visible or very small follicles. The natural sebum secretion in follicles helps to protect skin against external influences and ageing. Dry skin needs extra care due to the lack of natural protection. Dry skin is more sensitive because the acid barrier and barrier function are impaired due to the lack of lipids. Proper care of dry skin involves the stimulation of sebum production and protection of superficial skin. Occlusive products are heavy, stay on the surface of the skin, and thus reduce water loss. The products retain moisture and protect the uppermost layer of skin that fights against drying out. (2).

DRY SKIN VERSUS DEHYDRATED SKIN

Dehydration or water loss occurs in some people together with dry skin, but it is a condition that can happen in all skin types. Dehydrated skin lacks water, whereas dry skin lacks lipids. It is important to remember the distinction as even oily skin can become dehydrated and it would need hydration. Dehydrated skin looks thin or scaly with a tight and dry sensation. It is sometimes described as uneven or crepey like rough paper. The skin that needs moisture absorbs products very quickly. Different internal and outside factors like medications, alcohol and caffeine consumption, sun exposure, excess desquamation or heavy products can cause skin dehydration. Taking a lot of water and proper skincare that involves skin hydration with moisturizers and humectants can help reduce the negative effects of dryness and dehydration. (2).

OILY SKIN

Oily skin, known as lipid skin, is characterized by increased sebum production. The follicles are large and contain more sebum (2, 3). If the follicles are visible or enlarged over the whole face, the skin can be classified as oily. Oily skin demands more cleansing and exfoliation than other skin types. This type is prone to imperfections as the pores get clogged easily with sebum and dead skin cells. Excess oil and dead skin cells accumulating on the skin’s surface make the skin look thick and pale (2). The emergence of blotches and comedones are common (2, 3). Proper skin-care routines are very important as well as balancing sebum production by applying appropriate cosmetic treatments and products. Excessive cleansing can worsen the skin condition due to removing of the acid barrier and skin irritation.  The skin, stripped of its natural oils, becomes uneven and activates protective mechanisms. It can cause your oil glands to overcompensate and create even more oil on the surface (2).

Regardless of skin type, the aim is to achieve the balance of the barrier function. Educating clients, especially teenagers with hormonal imbalances, about the proper skin care will contribute significantly to the improvement in skin’s appearance. The right exfoliation treatment and water-based hydration will help maintain oily skin clean and balanced.  (2). Oily skin type has a positive side; it ages more slowly because of the oils that act as a shield. On the other hand, oily skin is more prone to acne, so the people with the oily skin type often need professional, medicinal approach. However, after deep cleansing and regular skin care, one can notice visible and significant improvements. (2).

COMBINATION SKIN TYPE

Combination skin type can be oily, dry, or oily and normal at the same time. T-zone in the middle part of the forehead, nose, and chin is oilier than other parts. This area has more sebaceous glands and larger pores. Other areas may be either normal or dry, or scaly due to dehydration or accumulated dead skin cells (2, 3). Key indicators of this skin type are visible pores (medium size or enlarged) in the cheeks, outside T-zone. Combination skin needs balancing out and therefore requires much more care than normal skin. It is necessary to achieve a balance between oils and water by treating oily and dry facial areas. Proper skin care routine includes cleansing and regular exfoliation that will help to cleanse the skin and reduce imperfections. Water-based products are the best choice for combination skin. Heavy, rough products, over-cleansing, and rough exfoliation should be avoided for all skin types (2).

SENSITIVE SKIN

Sensitive skin type is more common nowadays. It is caused by frequent skin exposure to external stimuli, stress, sun, and other harmful factors. Sensitive skin is a condition, but it may also be inherited through genetics (2). Sensitive skin is characterized by cracked, thin skin, and redness (2, 3). North European descendants tend to have pale, fair skin that is thinner and more sensitive. It blushes easily and can become red due to blood circulation, just beneath the skin. However, people with darker skin can naturally have sensitive skin, but it is not very noticeable. Sensitive skin gets easily irritated by products and when exposed to heat or sun (2).

Teleangiektazi or cupreous skin with red dilated capillaries is common in sensitive skin type. Rosacea or vascular conditions are common diseases. Sometimes these conditions are protective, visible reactions that act as a warning that something irritates the skin. Fragile or thin skin can also be caused by ageing or medical treatments. Rosacea or vascular conditions usually affect sensitive skin. It can become scaly because of bad weather conditions (2). Our skin may react and get irritated due to harmful factors such as chemicals, heavy, and rough products, or heat. Proper skin care management for sensitive skin means extra skin protection against external factors.

Finding the right skincare routine for sensitive or irritated skin is very difficult due to the skin’s low tolerance to products and stimuli. Products and treatments that can further irritate the skin should be avoided. Excessive rubbing, heat, exfoliation, or extraction can damage skin and increase redness. Sensitive skin must be treated very gently, with non-irritating, and calming products. Numerous companies have designed the collections specifically for sensitive skin. It is important to discover what causes the skin’s sensitivity through detailed analyses. The aim is to find if it is the skin’s natural condition or some exposure that causes sensitivity.  Proper skin care management can soothe, relax, and protect the skin (2).

Reference:

1.Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1).

2. Gerson J, D’Angelo J, Deitz S, Lotz S. Milady Standard Esthetics: Fundamentals. 11^th ed. New York: Cengage Learning; 2012.

3.Gupta R. Skin Care. New Delhi: Diamond Pocket Books (Pvt.) Limited; 2004.